Sparkling White

Sparkling Riesling is an underused idea, and it makes particular sense without alcohol, because the grape's acidity gives the bubbles something to sit on. The bead here is delicate and persistent rather than aggressive. On the palate it is crisp with vibrant acidity, tart citrus, underripe pear and green melon layered over minerality and a subtle herbal edge. The finish is long and mouthwatering with lemon and nectarine trailing off. Dry throughout, which is the point. Missing Thorn is a Napa project between winemaker Aaron Pott, named a Food and Wine winemaker of the year in 2012, and vintner Stephanie Honig. The wine is fermented fully first, then gently distilled to strip the alcohol while keeping the aromatics intact. Serve it very cold. Under 0.5 percent alcohol, roughly 15 to 25 calories a glass, vegan and gluten free.