Rosé

Zinfandel makes a better rose than its reputation suggests, and this one is dry rather than the sweet pink wine the grape usually gets blamed for. Fresh red berries and pomegranate lead with a hint of blood orange behind them, and a thread of herbal spice, something like thyme or dried sage, keeps it from reading as simply fruity. Delicate minerality carries the finish, which comes off clean instead of sticky. That balance is the reason it works across a long afternoon rather than one glass. Missing Thorn is made in Napa by Aaron Pott and Stephanie Honig, starting from fully fermented wine and using a gentle distillation to take the alcohol out while leaving the aromatics behind. Serve it properly chilled. It carries about 20 calories a serving, sits under 0.5 percent alcohol, and is vegan and gluten free.