Muscat

Made from Muscat of Alexandria, the aromatic grape behind a lot of southern Spain's perfumed whites, then taken down to 0.0% alcohol. Familia Torres has been doing this since 2008, back when almost nobody in serious wine wanted to be seen near the category. The order of operations is the point. Grapes are harvested and pressed, the must ferments into actual wine, the wine is clarified and filtered, and only at the end does the alcohol come out through purely physical means. You are drinking wine that was made properly and then had one component removed, not grape juice in a wine bottle. Muscat brings a floral, lightly citrus nose and a smooth, fresh palate that never turns heavy. Serve it cold, 8 to 10 degrees. Torres points it at appetizers, fish, seafood and rice dishes, and it earns its place at a table where only half the room is drinking.