Grapes for this one grow in Spain on sandy loam and loess soils, get vinified as a normal Merlot, and only then lose their alcohol through the process the Jung family patented in the Rheingau over a century ago. The result keeps the ruby colour and the fine grained tannin that make Merlot recognisable, with blackberry leading the fruit and a spicy edge behind it. Fine tannin is the useful part. It gives the wine grip, which is why Carl Jung sends it toward game, red meat, hearty stews and strong cheeses rather than toward light food. At roughly 23 calories per 100ml glass it costs almost nothing to pour, and it holds a wine shape better than most alcohol free reds because the structure was never stripped out along with the alcohol. Open it a little ahead and serve at cool room temperature.
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