Limalfi

The lemon here is the real thing, juice from limoni Costa d'Amalfi carrying protected IGP status, at 5 percent of the bottle. It sets the direction, and then more than 50 botanicals fill in around it, lemon verbena and lemon thyme among them, along with acacia blossom and olive leaf. What holds it together is the base. Dealcoholized Chardonnay at 39 percent plus apple wine pressed from old orchard varieties brings acid and depth a pure juice blend can't reach. Silver Needle and peony tea add a faintly bitter grip and stretch the finish, while mirabelle fills the middle with yellow fruit. In the glass it's pale gold with an orange cast and the perlage stays fine rather than showy. Serve it properly cold at 6 to 8°C with antipasti, fish, or light salads. 25 calories per 100ml. Contains sulfites.